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By Florence Fabricant
This Italian chophouse from Andrew Carmellini is the latest in the collection of high-profile dining rooms on the South Street Seaport district’s renovated Pier 17. It’s on two floors with views of tall ships and done in butterscotch leather, polished wood and brass to give it a nautical feel, with terra cotta on the walls. Mr. Carmellini said he’d been working on the restaurant for more than three years. “Usually you’re rushing to get ready to open up; we were done last year,” he said. Then the pandemic, of course. Central to the menu are 10 assorted steak cuts, including a Wagyu strip loin cured with Gorgonzola to ramp up the umami. Filling out the choices are a Sicilian Caesar salad with mimosa egg; mozzarella sticks dressed with caviar; a finite list of pastas, including lobster spaghetti; roast duck with mustard fruits that’s a homage to Hosteria d’Ivan near Parma, Italy; a whole salt-baked black sea bass wrapped in fig leaves; and a cowboy veal chop done Milanese-style. His chef de cuisine is Brendan Scott. The wine list concentrates on Italy, France and the United States, with a nice bubbly section to pair with raw bar specialties. There will be outdoor seating on the plaza. (Opens Wednesday)
Pier 17, 89 South Street (Fulton Street), 212-280-4600, www.carnemare.com.
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