The Most Exciting Place to Eat in Los Angeles Is Chinatown

Through the trying 18 months of the pandemic, the neighborhood has had an influx of dynamic new dining options — from stone-fruit panna cotta to crackling Cantonese pork.

Sesame, a food shop that sells prepared dishes and pickles made by the owner’s mother, is just one of a handful of excellent new food businesses in Los Angeles’s Chinatown.Credit…Rozette Rago for The New York Times

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By Tejal Rao

LOS ANGELES — The zong are treasures, wrapped in bamboo leaves and tucked in the fridge at Pearl River Deli. Warm them up, and each parcel goes tender, the sticky rice shining with a sweet, delicious fat that filters through a cache of Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, mung beans, peanuts and salted egg yolk.

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